1974 TVR 2500M
#3261TM
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    		•  In researching the problems I might face with the TR6 engine in my 2500M I repeatedly came across the TR6's notorious thrust washers. Surely someone in the 35 years since the TR6 first came out had found ways to ease the trouble. It was through this searching that I came across Scott Helms and his replacement thrust washers. Below is the letter that came with the washers I ordered from him. His website (linked at the bottom) goes into much more detail on the washers. Enjoy.
    Bronze Alloy Thrust Washer
    Triumph & TVR Six Cylinder Engines


    Hayden Olenik
    Street address removed
    West Lafayette, IN 47906

    Ordered: 2 Bronze Alloy Thrust Washers at .091" & .092"

    Thank you for purchasing the bronze alloy thrust washers. This order has been filled per your special instructions.

    Please read: Be sure to locate the lubrication grooves facing toward the spinning crankshaft surface for optimum lubrication and performance. That surface has been polished to benefit initial wear-in. This bronze alloy material was selected because of its superior wear characteristics and performance. It is an excellent replacement for the plated steel OEM style thrust washer that has caused problems over the years. Keep in mind that even though this solid bronze alloy thrust washer is a superior product, it will not last forever. Wherever there is friction, there is going to be wear. As with any Triumph six-cylinder engine, regular crankshaft end-float checks should be performed. If the end float dimension exceeds the maximum specification limits indicated in your workshop manual, it is time for a replacement. An important feature of this product is that when your thrust washer has worn to the point of requiring a replacement, the spinning crankshaft surface does not quickly grind away against bare steel as what happens with the original OEM design.

    There are various ways to check crankshaft end-float, and below is an example. You must choose the method that works best for you.

    1. Carefully place a sturdy wooden board (1" thickness x 4" width x 4' length) between the crankshaft pulley and the bottom of the radiator. While using the board for prying, gently but firmly force the crankshaft toward the rear of the car by pushing against the end of the crankshaft area (not against the fan blades). This shouldn't take a great deal of force, and you might even feel the crankshaft move, depending on how much end-float is present.
    2. Take a telescoping gage (sometimes called a snap gage - buy the inexpensive Chinese brand) and place it between the face of the radiator and the face of the crankshaft pulley. This is a crude measurement, but after repeated experience and always measuring between the same two places, it becomes fairly accurate. Once you have a good feel between the two surfaces and the gage is squarely positioned between the measuring surfaces, carefully lock the snap gage in place while making sure it hasn't moved. Using a dial caliper or vernier caliper, measure the distance from end to end of the telescoping gage ends.
    3. Get into the driver's seat of the car and press the clutch pedal to the floor, and then release your foot from the pedal. This action will force the crankshaft toward the front of the car (opposite direction). Take another accurate reading with the telescoping gage and subtract the second reading from the first reading. This difference will be your end-float measurement. I always repeat the measurement two or three times for good measure.
    4. If your end-float reading is .020", and you would like to have .005" after you install your new thrust washer, then you'll want to order a thrust washer that is .015" thicker than the one that's currently in your car (rear TW - as in toward rear of car). In most cases, the front thrust washer won't need to be replaced, but should be inspected. The end-float is adjusted by changing the width of the rear thrust washer only. The front thrust washer remains the same thickness to assure the crankshaft remains in the same position in relation to the other moving components. If you are replacing the thrust washers as part of a routine maintenance, make sure you don't replace the front thrust washer with one of the wrong width.

    Important note: To extend the life of your thrust washer and clutch release bearing (throw out bearing), be sure not to hold your foot on the clutch pedal longer than needed (waiting at stop light, for train, etc...)

    Other methods of end-float measurement: A) Dial gage mounted on magnetic stand and tip placed against crankshaft end. B) Feeler gages at the journal while the TW's are in place and oil pan removed.

    Thanks,

    Scott Helms
    Street address removed
    South Bend,Indiana 46614
    http://users.arczip.com/zntech1/tr6.html
    Austrheamgafun@arczip.com